Corfu- a magical week

I’ve been wanting to visit a Greek island for as long as I can remember so I was super happy to have been able to visit Corfu in June. We decided to follow in Gerald Durrell’s footsteps after reading his book My Family and other Animals; the way he described the island meant we had to explore Corfu for ourselves. I’m pleased to say we made the right choice- our week was one of the best holidays of my life. Before leaving, I was a bit worried Corfu would be totally overrun and spoiled by the package holiday crowds that plague much of Europe in the summer. Luckily, we managed to escape the masses and have a real big fat Greek holiday. Mr. Durrell would have been proud. 

We picked the village of Nissaki (in the North- east) as our home base and stayed in a self-catering apartment called Amalia Complex. This was a seriously amazing place to stay. We had a clean, spacious room with show-stopping views of the hazy mountains and the silvery sea. We could just sit out on our balcony all day long, soaking up the sunshine and that view. All our meals were enjoyed out there, since we were self-catering we could make full use of the delicious fresh food on offer at the local stores. This meant feta, the freshest tomatoes and cucumbers, plump peaches and strawberries so juicy they stained the fridge with their deep red juice.

The best part was a beautiful, quiet pool area which felt as exclusive as a private villa’s. I was often the only one there, floating on a lilo, the Ionian an expanse of aquamarine liquid melting into the mountains on the horizon.

Early mornings were the coolest time of day and there was just something so magical about sitting out on that balcony, watching the moon cast silver light on the ocean, to be replaced by the sun. Its rays would first wash the hills behind us in a warm glow, promising another day of intense heat. A light breeze would rustle the bougainvillea branches and birds would sing their good mornings.

Afternoons were long, and lazy; I’d dangle my legs in the pool as dragonflies bumbled past and watch speedboats skim across the sea like pond-skippers on a still lake. It would be late evening before the heat finally started to fade, the day dying slowly, the hum of cicadas growing louder. The air would feel heavy with the perfume of tropical flowers, and finally, I’d slowly climb the stairs back up, to bed, past the lemon and orange trees.

Although it would have been easy to spend the whole week in the pool or eating fresh feta in the sun, the island was begging to be explored. We spent a lot of time clambering around rocks in inappropriate footwear in order to get a good photo, and waiting for taxis that didn’t always show up when they were expected. Nissaki had the most picturesque little cove which was an easy walk to, through olive groves and a forest of wildflowers. We loved to visit before it got busy later in the day so that we could be the first ones there, watching the sun rise higher, the sea still mirror-calm.

On our first day, me being my macho self decided I was suitably qualified to hire a boat for the day. Well why not? So we got a sporty little craft from Nissaki Boat rental, were given a five minute demo by the chilled-out owner (how didn’t he sniff out my incompetence) and then we set off, being told as an after thought “not to get too close to Albania” and where the papers were, “incase you’re stopped by the coast guard”. All that aside, we had the best time ever, taking it in turns to steer or sunbathe and enjoy the scenery. The mountains of Albania stood enigmatically just out of reach, blurring with the sea. We passed pine scented coves only accessible by boat, where pebbly beaches rolled gently into the water.

We came back with salt in our hair and sun on our skin. Sunburnt and windswept, but blissed out.

Over the next few days we explored other beautiful seaside towns. In Kassiopi, we managed to find a secret beach away from the crowds (a hot and sweaty hike’s reward). We spent ages just sitting on the rocks there, looking out over the lapis lazuli-blue waves. Yachts were moored in the calm water; it was like the movies, or better. Except we had to climb back up the hundreds of steps to leave (our calves would have looked better than the yachties, anyway). We rewarded ourselves with a tangy fresh orange juice at Gerald Durrell’s old house, The White House, now a taverna.

In Kalami, we headed in the opposite direction to everyone else and discovered a beautiful path with views across the aquamarine sea, flecked with white yachts. We also visited Corfu Town, which was surprisingly not busy despite the ominous presence of a cruise ship in port. The sound of a violin being played drifted in the hot air as we strolled through the warren of the old Jewish quarter. Washing hung in the narrow backstreets, cats lounged under the chairs of old-timers drinking cold drinks. We got lost looking for souvenirs amongst the artisan stores and clambered up a well-preserved old fort with a panorama of the whole city; a mishmash of church spires and honeycomb-golden roofs.

One sultry day towards the end of our holiday, we visited the Donkey sanctuary. Hidden in the heart of the island, we felt like explorers finding our way there, through real Durrell country. The hills felt alive; you could almost imagine the Rose Beetle man napping in the shade or Yani the shepherd leading his flock between the olive trees. Pale yellow butterflies led the way, and we followed them to the entrance.

Donkeys of all sizes (and some cats which didn’t like me) have a safe haven there to get over their sometimes horrific injuries and generally have a better life. We helped brush them and gave them loads of cuddles. One lovely donkey called Svenja loved all the fuss especially, and there was a whole litter of puppies to tickle too. Any one visiting Corfu should plan on coming, just giving the donkeys some attention and time is enough to make their day (and yours).

Needless to say, this was one of the best weeks of my life. Gerald Durrell’s island really was like he described it; a mix of beautiful beaches lapped by Listerine blue sea, a mountainous interior still full of butterflies and olive trees, and friendly people with a love of life. Arriving home at midnight to a wet UK, I imagined the moon reflected on the still ocean, and thought about how in a few hours, the sun would be up, shining on the mountains, the whole island slowly waking.

Practical stuff:

Getting to Corfu– Most budget airlines (Easy Jet, Ryan Air etc) fly to Corfu in the summer months. Once you arrive, you can get a taxi or organize with your accommodation to pick you up.

Where to stay- We stayed at the Amalia Complex in Nissaki- it was an absolute steal for 50 euros a night! I found it through Owners Direct– they have loads of villas, apartments and studios all over the island. just a warning- if you prefer not to self cater you can stay in a hotel but these tend to be much more characterless and in the built-up areas.

Getting around- This is the interesting part. Rent a car if you can, or a scooter if you’re experienced (the hills make for a wild ride). Taxis are unreliable to say the least, we spent most days waiting for one, screaming at the operator and generally despairing at the lack of organisation. We were supposed to rent a scooter but this backfired when we rented a dud. So I speak from experience- rent a car! You need one to explore the island properly. Rent a boat too- Nissaki boat rentals is great but they are available all over the island. You can also take the bus but be aware that the times are very fixed and the schedules a bit unclear, although we managed to take it to Corfu Town and found it very comfortable- it has AC and its super cheap.

Eating and moving- If you’re self-catering, take full advantage of the delicious fresh stuff on offer at any small grocery store or market. Otherwise, tavernas are everywhere. The Donkey Sanctuary makes for a well-spent morning and is a great way to glimpse the island’s unspoilt interior. Corfu Town is also worth a day.

My top hack- Visit in June! the weather is perfect (hot) but the school holiday crowds haven’t descended yet. Otherwise wait for September or October if you can for more peace.

So, ready to visit Corfu next summer? Just don’t blame me if you bring a donkey home along with a tan…

Special thanks to Maya for the beautiful photos. See more and read about her adventures in Corfu over on her blog.